Cambodia and Angkor Wat

There are two historical facts to know about Cambodia, and both have to do with the Khmer (pronounced "kuh-mái") people. First are the astoundingly beautiful ancient cities built by the Khmer kings. Angkor was the heart of the Khmer Empire for about 550 years (9th to 15th centuries). The city in its heyday sprawled over an area the size of Los Angeles and supported more than a million people. The second reality is the genocide committed by the Khmer Rouge between 1975 and 1979 when Communist forces slaughtered fellow Cambodians who were educated or deemed "intellectual" --- which could mean anyone who wore glasses. Nearly two million men, women and children were tortured and killed during this period, leaving the country without leadership and without hope. Even today, one can see the results of the horror --- the lack of an older population (the average age is 35) and a sadness that is palpable. The Civil War ended in 1998 with the death of Pol Pot, the leader who hoped the country would be led by Communist peasants. But the terror continues with the presence of landmines which kill and maim hundreds of people each year (down from thousands in the '90s). The majority of victims are those trying to reclaim their farms. Princess Diana's visit in 1991 focused the world's attention on landmines, but there may never be a way to eliminate them completely. People with missing limbs are everywhere, many begging on the streets.

We began our time in Cambodia by stopping at the afternoon market where an array of vegetables, fish, meats and fowl was on display --- along with Cambodian cuties like this child. One of the most fascinating offerings was a type of "walking" fish called a snakehead that can survive three days out of water and, in fact, were jumping around their container. [Because of the sensitivities of some of the people reading this, we'll not include photos nor describe the "presentation" of the kind of birds we're so thrilled to spot with our binoculars in California. Gulp.] By the way, we can actually cross the street in Siem Reap without praying for protection.























Next we explored the beautiful and serene Wat Bo Monastery where we were intrigued by memorial stupas and stories, crematorium, monks of all ages working and praying and the water purification rite (above) which doused mother, child and motorbike. We were hot enough to have happily joined in the rite if we knew we wouldn't accidentally swallow some water.

























We ended our first day with a performance of Apsara Classical Dance, an art form that is at least one thousand years old. (Aspara dancers are a favorite motif in the exquisite temple carvings.) Young girls begin their training early in order to achieve the flexibility of hands and feet shown in these images.

































Ta Prohm is a buddhist monastic complex where the jungle has been left uncleared by archaeologists in some places. It makes for an other worldly experience which was used to good effect in the 2001 movie TOMB RAIDER with Angelina Jolie. (It's on our Netflix list). By the way, this is totally out of context, but here is a bit of trivia for movie fans---in Saigon our guide pointed to a five-star hotel where Angelina and Brad Pitt had stayed. They were besieged by papparazzi, but Brad escaped them by zooming off on a motorbike. They never caught him. Life really does imitate art.


This section of a one thousand foot wall called Elephant Terrace supported a reviewing stand for the king. Inspiration for the carvings made so long ago is found nearby where elephants wait to take tourists to the top of a nearby hill for a panoramic view of the temples.











An Angkor scholar described the Bayon temple as, from afar, "but a muddle of stones, a sort of moving chaos assaulting the sky." But up close, one is struck by "the serenity of the stone faces" (216 of them!) on the many towers.









The impressive carvings below are part of the second longest bas-relief in the world. (Angkor Wat is the first.) The carvings illustrate stories from history, mythology and everyday life. Here is a naval battle with the soldiers above and slaves (and fish) below. Next to it we see preparations for a banquet - an animal about to be lowered into a cooking pot with a nice fire going.

































Captured in stone, a man is blowing on a fire while the lady of the house graciously invites us all to the celebration.






This was our first glimpse of the fabled Angkor Wat. The moat surrounding it was not meant for defense but was symbolic of the Hindu cosmic world, an ocean surrounding the universe. (It was built as a Hindu temple, then became Buddhist, then Hindu and now, Buddhist once more.)














We entered the complex on the Naga causeway which leads towards three towers. The center and highest is dedicated to Shiva, the "Destroyer" in Hindu mythology; the tower on the right honors Vishnu, the "Protector" and the left pays homage to Brahma, the "Creator." Since Angkor Wat was built as the earthly home of God, it makes sense to have these deities greeting visitors.



Once inside everyone was eager to be photographed for posterity with one of the world's most famous buildings in the background, including Buddhist monks visiting with their families and tourists from California.












Encircling the main building is a one-mile long gallery displaying bas reliefs. Inside are four cisterns, stairs built at a 70 degree angle (so steep they were closed in 2007 after numerous accidents) and five of the nine towers which dominate the complex.























We were prevented from watching the sun set on Angkor Wat because of clouds, but that didn't stop us from enjoying our "Sunset Cocktails" of Rice wine with Ginesang, frog legs and sticky rice as we contemplated the scenery. We also encountered a young boy who surprised us by knowing all of the state capitals in the U.S. Truly amazing. We all put dollar bills in his hand and encouraged him to continue his education. Later, in Thailand, our friend Willie asked if we had met any of the kids at Angkor Wat who regularly entertain tourists with their knowledge of state capitals. We decided that gimmick or not, the kids are still smart. And if our few dollars help them go to school...great. We may have helped finance a future politician.

Our guide, Thai, demonstrates one of the nearly one hundred uses for one of the symbols of Cambodia - a scarf called a "krama." If we had thought that Angkor Wat was the pinnacle of our adventures, we found out that there were many peak experiences ahead. First was our introduction to an ancient mode of transportation - an ox-cart ride through the village of Wat Aragn where we visited the home of Chai, his wife Piep (who was working in the rice field) and his family.




































One of the best parts of travel is discovering unexpected scenes like this. A lotus farm! It sounds like poetry, doesn't it? It LOOKS like poetry. So poet friends, get to work. Here is your inspiration.


Let's call this "poetry in motion," a FLOATING Elementary School. On the edge of Tonle Sap Lake where water recedes between October and March and is flooded by the Mekong Delta during June and July, everything is built to accommodate the ebb and flow. We visited a first grade class and listened to students recite the Cambodian alphabet and sing songs. The teacher has taught thirty years and earns $30-$35 dollars per month. (No teachers' union here, we think.)




We hope you're able to watch this 24 second video of a child reciting. If not, just know that his captivating delivery is star quality.

Finding ourselves in a part of the world where both people and buildings literally "go with the flow," our eyes were treated to things we never imagined we'd see: floating lumberyards and hardware stores, supermarkets, gardens, floating pig farm, a playground with a volleyball competition in full swing (recently the site of an "Amazing Race" destination), a Catholic Church with fishermen casting nets near its front door.





There were boats filled with goods to be sold, boats carrying school children home,  and finally, the floating village called Chong Khneas where every year nearly a million Vietnamese come to fish and live on the lake  (in houses painted blue). The water rises ten miles into the surrounding forest, leaving debris like plastic bags hanging from treetops when it recedes. Thai told us that "fish are the only living things that see the leaves fall" in this underwater forest. Unsurprisingly, as we contemplated these natural wonders and human beings' courageous efforts to adapt, an alarm was sounded: the Chinese want to build a dam in the Mekong Delta which would change everything on the lake. Those Chinese.

























One last temple - Banteay Srei Temple or the Citadel of Women, so called because of its delicate beauty. For the French who discovered it in 1914, it is the "Jewel of the Khmer Era." Here is a quiz. (Grandchildren, are you ready?) The archeologists who restored the columned frame above on the right made a mistake. Can you see what's wrong? (Thai is a temple expert and pointed it out to us; otherwise, who would have known?)


Shadow puppets are a favorite form of entertainment in southeast Asia. This young troupe of puppeteers seen behind the screen is from a local orphanage, and, because they perform often, they do all the parts from memory. And sing as well, accompanied by a small orchestra.








Our final morning in Cambodia was spent at the Killing Fields Memorial where thousands died. The Memorial Stupa pictured here holds the bones and skulls of victims of the Khmer Rouge. A plaque nearby reads:

"Dear Tourists. The collection of bones that you see in this stupa where bones have been collected from nearby field. These were from the innocent people who died at the hands of the savage Pol Pot regime '74 - '75."

No family was left untouched by the genocide, including Thai whose 14-year-old brother has never been found. He shared that the more he talks about what happened, the more insecure he feels. People in their twenties don't believe what happened -- or worse, they believe the Khmer Rouge did the right thing! We stopped at a memorial to soldiers who fought and died in their struggle against the Kymer Rouge between '79 and '89. One of them was the general for whom Thai worked as a secretary and who sent Thai and three other young people to school in the capital, thus saving their lives. We were grateful that Thai was sharing his loss with us.

We both read a book about an American woman who taught English in Viet Nam in the '90s. In EARTH AND WATER, which translates to "my country" in Vietnamese, she pondered her motives in visiting places that have suffered so terribly, and she decided, as have we, that it is important to be a witness---to share what we have experienced so it won't keep happening.
















When we left our hotel for the airport, the staff said, "Goodbye, Madam. Goodbye, Sir. Have a good life."
Touching in its simplicity, heart wrenching in its implications. "A good life" is what we wish for Cambodia and its people. They deserve our help; they deserve our hands holding theirs in compassion.