Robben Island and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

I've been reading Nelson Mandela's autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom, so a highlight of our time in Cape Town was touring Robben Island, the prison where he spent 18 years in a very small cell. A former political prisoner took us through the cells, explaining what life was like there. Derrick Bosson was only eighteen-years-old when the system of apartheid was wreaking havoc on the lives of those condemned because of the color of their skin. He spent five years there and is a strong advocate for tolerance and acceptance of others despite differences. We all want the same things, he said; we are all God's children. Amen.

The view of Cape Town from Robben Island ---another San Francisco similarity.

Derrick

Bosson,

Freedom

Fighter

The limestone quarry where prisoners labored in the unforgiving sun. The small cave provided temporary relief. The 1200 stones in this pile near the entrance to the quarry were placed there by former prisoners. It reminded us of the stones placed on Jewish graves - a sign that the lost will not be forgotten.

The cell where Nelson Mandela

spent eighteen years of his life.

The gate where prisoners left the prison to return to their former lives - "The long walk to freedom" of Nelson Mandela's book.

The new soccer stadium, one of nine throughout the country of South Africa built for the 2010 World Cup.

Nobel Peace Plaza with statues of the four recipients of the Peace Prize from South Africa:

Albert Luthull, President of the ANC, African National Congress who won in 1960;

Desmond Tutu, Bishop of Johannesburg who won in the 1980s for his work against apartheid;

Nelson Mandela and FW DeKlerk who shared the prize in 1993.

The mountain peaks known as the Twelve Apostles.

The temperature was perfect as we strolled through the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. We saw many plants and flowers that were familiar because we've seen them at UCSC's Arboretum which has an African garden. Now we know where to go when we want to remember our time in Cape Town, South Africa.

The view of Cape Town from the Botanical Gardens.
Pinchusion Protea
Protea
European Oak
The statuary garden featuring the works of the

gifted artists of Zimbabwe.

Cape Town, Part Two

Sunday, April 18 (continued)

Our first day in South Africa turned out to be one of those uncommonly beautiful days that must be savored while it lasts. Our trip south along the coast brings us to Cape of Good Hope which is only a few degrees farther south than Cape Point, making it the most southwestern point of the continent of Africa. HOWEVER ---- Cape Argulis on the southeastern coast is the actual place where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. Who knew? The Chamber of Commerce in Point Argulis is not happy that everyone travels to Cape of Good Hope in search of the southernmost point. We're doing our part for them by encouraging future tourists to South Africa to insist on seeing Point Argulis instead; although Tony tells us it's very windy and rather inhospitable there. Only one way to sort this out. We need to look at a map of South Africa, so here it is courtesy of Google Maps. (You're welcome :) Cape Argulis is the bottom tip. Cape of Good Horn is to the left and farther north.

Our trip south includes stops at vista points, this one overlooking a lovely bay and Sentinel Rock in the distance. This is where an annual "extreme" surfing contest takes place in September. (Think "Mavericks" at Half Moon Bay.)

Our journey south also provides some entertainment with a brief look at an ostrich farm where baboons wait to share dinner with the ostriches. Tony assures us that the baboons are not as cute as they seem. They're actually agressive and pesky. We find out a bit later how right he is.

We arrive at the two capes, first exploring Cape Point.


The historic lighthouse was in service from 1860 to 1919. The white flashing light of 2,000 candlepower could be seen 67 km. out to sea. But, since the cape was often covered in fog and mist, it was ineffective. After the wreck of the Portuguese liner "Lusitania" in 1911, it was moved lower down on the hill.

Jerry is posing in front of Cape Point,

Hanging Rock looking serene in the distance.

Here's Cape of Good Hope, originally called Cape of Storms by early explorers but given a more appealing name by King John of Portugal who wanted sailors assigned to the distant outpost to feel more optimistic about their sea duty.

Our group of twenty posing in front of Cape of Good Hope as Tony, with at least ten cameras slung around his neck, takes a picture for each of us. And that's why we're all laughing. We should have taken a picture of HIM.

Here are the baboons again, anything but cute as they join traffic and climb on cars to have a look around.

The owner of the white car won't be able to drive his car till the baboon (an alpha male) decides he can.

Farther down the road we visit a beach where African Penguins moved in a decade or so ago. They're the same species we see at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, so it's like greeting old friends. We'll take penguins over baboons any day.

A downy youngster waits for his parents to bring him something to eat. Looks as if he's big enough to fend for himself, doesn't he? But penguins tend to coddle their babies.

The following twenty-seven second movie might not seem too exciting as beach movies go until you learn it's been filmed at the Cape of Good Hope. Breathe in the salt air as you watch it.

Southern Africa Odyssey

Friday, April 16/ 9 a.m.

After a very short night (four hours sleep), we had an early start and easy ride to the airport. We're off to a good start, we think. Inside the airport, however, we find chaos --- crowds of people looking bewildered. What's going on? An agent calls out, "Anyone NOT going to Europe?" Oh, right. The volcanic eruption. Hundreds of thousands of travelers have had their plans disrupted by a faraway natural phenomenon of epic proportions. We're among the fortunate heading in a different direction. But our minds are filled with possible scenarios of unmet obligations, students stranded, vacations ruined---and worse. How many weddings need to be rescheduled or fathers who will meet their new babies when they're two or three days old? There will be a story to be told for each of these altered events for years to come. We can only imagine what they might be.

Saturday, April 17 10 p.m. Cape Town

Smooth, very long flights. Six hours to Dakar where there's a two-hour stop for refueling, and we're not allowed to leave the plane. It doesn't matter though because it's a good time to meet fellow travelers from our tour. Eight hours later we land in Johannesburg where we have our first taste of World Cup fervor.

On to Cape Town, a two-hour flight, and finally---we've arrived! Our guide is Tony Shuman, a well-spoken Afrikaner of British origins. We can understand every word. Tomorrow we explore, according to Tony, "the world's most beautiful city." We'll let you know. And now to bed--

Sunday, April 18/Cape Town and Vicinity

So, IS Cape Town the world's most beautiful city? The photos will answer the question for you, but let me add only this: imagine San Francisco with Yosemite within its city limits and the Big Sur coastline outside the golden gates. Hard to imagine? Just look at the pictures.

Here is the view from our hotel window, Table Mountain in the distance, looking as if it's in the middle of the city.

And it is.

On our way to Table Mountain. Early morning fog is beginning to lift from Cape Town.

Here's the view from the aerial tram. You can really see why

Cape Town reminds us of San Francisco. The peak on the left

is called Lion's Head.

Looking south - to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope. There are more photos to come of those famous sites. But for now, this will do. Suffice it to say, we were blessed with a singularly gorgeous day, a day that would make San Francisco proud --- as well as Cape Town. Would you agree that Cape Town is truly one of the world's most beautiful cities?

Tony (below) explaining the geography, geology and history of the area.

Turkey and The Blue Voyage

The Blue Mosque with its six Minarets

There was a thought about entitling this entry "What to do with Leftover Turkey," since we have been home a VERY long time now. I decided against it though. Turkey should not be taken lightly. It is a place rich in history, culture, religion and surprises. There is so much to learn here, and in many ways, we've been processing our visit ever since. One thing we know: we want to learn more. We're thinking of enrolling in a Western Civilization course, or, at the very least, watching a DVD series about early civilization in this beautiful, strange and mystical country.

Istanbul captures the flavor of the country with its exotic mix of Asian and European traditions. Visitors come here to discover mosques (previously Christian churches, and before that, pagan temples), slender minarets, palaces of the Ottoman Empire (think of sultans in turbans and veiled beauties in harems), the Grand Bazaar where anything and everything is for sale and the exquisitely fragrant Spice Market. And this is just the beginning!

To understand Istanbul as the cultural crossroads of Europe and Asia, you have to know that the Golden Horn, a large bay that turns gold with the setting sun, divides Istanbul into Old Town and New Town and that the Bosphorus River separates the European continent (called Thrace which comprises 3% of Turkey) on the west from Asia Minor (Anatolia, 97% of Turkey) on the east. Confused? A look at the map will help clarify things. Notice that Istanbul is also situated on a sea - the Sea of Marmara. It took us our entire stay in Istanbul (previously Constantinople and before that Byzantium) to grasp these divisions - sort of. We're still working on comprehending the evolution of the many levels of civilizations which have occupied these lands. Briefly, there was the Early Bronze Age (2600-2300 BC), then Classic Age (5th-4th Century BC), Hellenistic Age - the Greeks (330 - 3 BC), Roman Age (1st c. BC - 4th C. AD), and the Byzantine Age (5th -15th c. AD). Then the Turks and the Ottomans came on the scene. Of course all of these changes in power didn't occur without mighty struggles or lengthy wars, often horrific in scope and scale. Fortunately, the beauty of the landscape, ingenuity of builders, artists and craftsmen, and the warmth and intelligence of the people is what is remembered.


We could have spent two more hours in the Grand Bazaar - or even two days! Our first stop: pashmina scarves. The vendors weren't as aggressive as we'd expected. Perhaps it was too early in the day. Advice to future travelers: try to be the FIRST customer of the day. They'll give you a good deal because it brings them luck the rest of the day. At least that's what they tell you.

Outside the Spice Market we encountered several ladies selling pigeon food. We weren't as surprised by the the number of pigeons (after all, we've been to Venice) as the abundance of cats, especially in the palace grounds. They literally have the run of the place. Dogs were more scarce, and the few we saw seemed always to be sound asleep. This photo of a cat sitting outside the Topkapi Palace is dedicated to the cat lovers in our family. (You know who you are.)

For those who aren't thrilled by cats, how about the famous "Topkapi Dagger," the object of much strategy and scheming in the movie Topkapi? There are actually four enormous emeralds, though only three are seen here. The other covers a watch hidden in the base of the dagger. Ah, those clever Turks.

For many more photos and an overview of our trip, including the fabulous Cappadocia with its fairy tale rock formation communities, click on

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