Friday, May 25, 2012

And finally - Havana!

We've been home a while, but the trip isn't complete until the blog is finished. So how do we choose from the 800 or so photos of photogenic Havana? (Or "Habana" as the Habañeros call it.) Perhaps just a quick look at images that capture our five days in Havana will have to do. So here they are --- American cars almost 50 years old, revolutionary monuments, musicians and dancers, school children, an organic farm, more banners of Che, the magic of Cuba's own Antonio Gaudi, America's Ernest Hemingway, a UNESCO biosphere reserve and model village, and finally close-ups of the Santa Cruz Chamber of Commerce travelers who took Cuban culture to their hearts and became, for a time, "Habañeros."

The city is filled with architectural gems that are gradually being restored like this lovely example.




















Our introduction to the city began with a stroll on the Prado, a tree-lined boulevard that looks remarkably like Las Ramblas in Barcelona. Artists display their works while instructing students on the side.


























A highlight of our trip was attending the Ballet Nacional de Cuba where Alicia Alonso is the General Director. She was in the audience, and everyone stood and applauded the 90-year-old diva, still graceful and beautiful.



























The young man in the box next to ours waits patiently for the performance to begin.









May 7
Plaza de la Revolución, a huge square where political rallies are held.  In 1998 one million people crammed into the square to hear Pope John Paul II celebrate Mass. Pope Benedict spoke here last March. The building behind the monument is where Raul Castro goes to work, and the building behind Jerry is the Ministerio del Interior, well known for its huge mural of Che Guevera.



















Museo de la Revolucion, formerly the Presidential Palace. On the wall behind the statue on the stairs are bullet holes from the 1957 failed assassination attempt on Batista's life. (He escaped down secret stairs.)
















The interior was designed by Tiffany of New York. This is Cuba's version of Versailles' Hall of Mirrors.













May 8
Church of the Guardian Angel. (Caribbean churches and clouds are muy photogenic.)









Tim, retired from P.G. and E, and Jerry were fascinated by these electrical connections which indicate that this dilapidated building houses 19 apartments. The Office of the City Historian is busy trying to refurbish buildings, but it will take a while.

















Osmín told us that 1.3 buildings per day collapse in the city, totally or partially. They are replaced by these small parks.






























The Cigar Museum where everyone tries out the taste of Cuba's most famous export (except, of course, in the US where run and cigars are not allowed through customs.)







Here are a few famous cigar-smokers.








Cigars are followed, naturally, by the Museo del Ron -- the Rum Museum where we listen to another great group before learning how rum is made. (Sugar cane, no surprise, is a main ingredient.)



                  






              


                     Girls of the Havana Club.














We love these artistic "quails" scurrying into the foliage.  Cuba is filled with works of art.


              












Peeking over the shoulder of Mother Teresa to read her book.  Was she really this small?















A familiar figure in the Plaza de San Francisco de Asis, our own Fray Junipero Serra, buried in Carmel Mission and honored here.



















Our cultural exchange includes stops at artists' studios.











Sitting at the bar of El Floridita ("Cradle of the Daiquiri") 
with famous customer Ernest Hemingway 
who once downed 13 double daiquiris.  (I didn't.)


















We spot the first car we owned - A 1959 Chevy Impala (actually, ours was a 1960.)






















The famous Hotel Nacional where the rich and famous gathered in pre-revolutionary days (and since then too).













Callejon de Hamel - the vision of artist Salvador who uses anything and everything in this artist's alley to make a creative statement.









We especially love his use of bathtubs as benches, furniture, playground equipment and frames for his quotations and paintings.























But his work hardly holds a candle to Fusterlandia! Painter and Sculptor José Fuster has created a magical kingdom in his neighborhood. Called the "Picasso of the Caribbean," Fuster was inspired by Picasso and Antonio Gaudi among others, but he put his unique stamp on the place he calls home. What is it all about? The joy of living! We loved it.



















    











Fuster's"Homage to Gaudi."















                                 View of the city from the roof of the Parque Central Hotel.










May 9
A visit to an organic farm where we met the "John Wayne of Cuba," according to the Miami Herald. Miguel Salcines was justifiably proud of the community farm and its formidable output. He was grateful for the embargo, he said, because the farm would never have happened otherwise. We were impressed by him, the farm and the people who make it work.

















































Finca Vigia on the outskirts of Havana - the home of Ernest Hemingway where his 9,000 books, stuffed animal heads and typewriter can be found. He lived here 20 years and was loved by Cubans.











His bedroom. (Typewriter on the bookshelf.
 He typed standing up because of a war injury.)
























His fishing boat - and a source of inspiration for The Old Man and the Sea. He donated his Nobel prize for literature to the Cubans.










Lunch at La Bodeguita Del Medio where the mojito was invented. (And where Ernest Hemingway liked to hang out. He got around.) It was sweltering on the second floor, but the fan helped.











Cathedral of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception.











The place in the sanctuary where Christopher Columbus was buried for 102 years. The Spanish took his remains back to Spain when they left in 1898. If you want to see him "in person," he's in the Seville Cathedral.











The Escuela Primaria Carlos Manuel de Cespedes. Children were in rooms without windows in the unbearable heat. Our visit created a happy diversion for them - and for us.  We left school supplies, baseball hats and other items for them.























Spectacular view of Havana from the Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magnos del Morro, erected between 1589 and 1640.  Note the pollution pluming up behind the center domed building, marring the landscape and our pictures.  The city is working on solving the problem.


May 10
Another highlight.  A visit to a UNESCO biosphere reserve and model village called Las Terrazas (the Terraces).  We all decided we wouldn't mind living here.  (Until I heard that everyone picks up litter and cleans trails when they're not at work.  But then I realized why Cuba is pretty much free of litter and graffiti.)


Estudio Alomá.  We bought three lithographs from this talented young artist, one of several living in the community of about one thousand Cubanos.




















Can't finish the blog without another
picture of the charismatic Che.
























Our Farewell Dinner!   

          Here's Joan, Donna, John and Joan

Laury, Denis, Dale and our exemplary (and patient) leader, Linda










Dave and Nora, Jim and Tim












        Alice and Ron and Maya








Karen, Sara and Maggie, Kathy and Jim, Karen








   Crystal, Harlow, David and Anne, Judi and Jane








          Gillian and Ken, Sylvia and Jerry







    Jane takes one last picture.
    Hard to resist.




On our walk home, we passed one of the MANY bands playing their hearts out while passersby and locals danced and listened to the music.  It was a great way to end our time in Havana.

May 11
Linda expresses our appreciation and love to Osmín who really has been the BEST tour guide we've ever experienced.  We'll miss his sense of humor and great laugh especially.  His knowledge, kindness and patience will not be forgotten either.  Come visit us, Osmín!














  





Goodbye to Cuba and hello to Miami where we are told to "follow the red line" to Customs.  Oops, I guess we really can't bring cigars back to the US!  (Time to lift the embargo, folks.)