Kyoto and Nara

On our way to Kyoto we stopped at the Sea of Japan to dip our toes in the very warm water and pick up some shells.

And then, on to KYOTO!

Someday we need to return to this lovely city with its exquisite buildings and gardens.  There wasn't enough time to see the more than 1,600 temples, hundreds of shrines, and three imperial palaces. Grateful for what we did experience, our first stop was the 17th c. Nijo-jo, the medieval castle of the first Tokugawa Shogun. We walked on the famous "nightingale" floors, a creative alarm system that squeaks when walked on. Some of us peeked underneath to see how it works, but the poster explains it well. (My parents had a nightingale floor outside their bedroom door when I was in college. I had to jump over it - quietly - so they wouldn't know how late I'd gotten home.)

A photo of a photo, since photographs weren't allowed inside. Delicate, graceful paintings decorated every room of the huge palace.

On to the Ryoan-ji Temple (16th c.) where we tried to find the exact spot to stand in order to see all fifteen stones in their placid setting of white sand.  (This wasn't the spot.) A perfect example of classic Japanese design. There were too many visitors to capture the serenity the gardens inspire, but one can imagine!

The gorgeous Golden Pavilion, floating on a lake and shimmering from every angle. Originally built in the 14th c., it was totally rebuilt when a fanatic burnt it to the ground in 1950. It's covered in gold leaf from Kanazawa.

The famous tea ceremony at Kodaiji Temple which was designed by a Zen master when tea was first brought to Japan from China in the 1500s. The traditional ceremony focuses on ritual and grace.  It is a performance art which creates a calm and contented state of mind. Rob-san tried his hand at it, presenting the results of his efforts to his grandfather, Bud-san.  So touching.

These are "Tourist Geisha" - in other words, not real Geisha but young women who come to Kyoto to dress up and parade around in costume and make-up. Sometimes it's hard to tell the real from the pretend, but one thing distinguishes them - their shoes. These girls are wearing flat sandals. Real Geisha wear sandals as high as 3, 4 or more inches. Part of their training involves learning to walk in them.












The Gion District (or Geisha District) at night. Tourists were there with cameras at the ready to capture one of the Geiko (the preferred name for Geisha in Kyoto) or Meiko (apprentice Geiko) out on the street. I came face to face with one and was so startled by her beauty that I forgot to take a picture. (Besides, they all walk extremely fast in their high shoes. Good training.)























Here's the only Maiko I caught from the front. She smiled at us, more friendly than most. The Meiko wear more elaborate kimonos and hair adornment. The Geiko's dress is simpler, and they wear wigs.
















These two young dancers were performing in a cultural show we attended which also included a puppet show and the traditional Kyogen, a comic act presented during a Noh drama.






We spent the next day in NARA, the original capital of Japan and a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose shrines and temples are some of the oldest wooden structures in the world. Our first stop was the Shinto Kasuga Shrine with 2,000 stone lanterns lining the paths.  It's also where sacred deer run free, reminding us of home - but not in a good way.  (Those of you who know Jerry's frustration with the growing population of deer in our neighborhood will understand.)

The poster illustrates all the ways the deer, as charming as they might seem, can create havoc - they bite, kick, butt and knock down.

There are shrines/gates honoring everything from marriage to wealth, deities to health.  The gate on the left honors the mountain beyond.  Lovely.  New babies are brought to the shrine, and marriages are performed.  We were lucky to be present for both happy events.

Todai-ji, a Buddhist Temple from the 8th century.  This huge statue of Buddha dominates the building.


A calligrapher stamped and drew in a journal I purchased.  It's the custom for Buddhists to collect such "passport" stamps in their journals each time they visit a temple.  Then, when they die, the book is placed in their coffin.


The top attraction in Kyoto is riding bikes around the town, visiting top sites.  Lots of fun.  We stopped first at the Imperial Palace.  It was the home of the Imperial family until the capital was moved to Tokyo in 1868.














The Gion District by day.


                                                                                                         The market.













And a former kimono factory.

Kiyomizu-dera has a spectacular view of the city and valley as well as sacred waters

flowing from three streams which confer the gifts of wisdom, health and longevity.  But great care must be taken to drink from only two of the streams,  otherwise the gods will be extremely upset.  So which two would you choose?

It was crowded and hot, and this sweet ice
saved our lives.


                                                                                 

As we walked down the hill we encountered more tourist geishas and perhaps one real geisha.

This one?

Our farewell dinner, always bittersweet.  We're grateful for the enthusiasm, kindness and humor of our travel mates.  Five of us were continuing on to Hiroshima, so those pictures will be in the next - and last - post.

Ted-san and Becky-san from South Carolina

Barbara-san and Mimi-san from California

Bud-san and Rob-san from Salem, Oregon

Bonnie-san from Washington D.C. area

Jerry and Sylvia, Jerry and Flo (from New Orleans) ---
who share the same wedding date, June 25, 1960!

Shirakawago and Kanazawa

The Miburo Dam, Japan's first and largest dam built with only stones and clay. Extremely controversial when it was first proposed because it displaced an entire village. Two 300 - 400 year old cherry trees were moved up the hill and amazingly, survived. The trees symbolized hope for the villagers, who reluctantly moved on. It was raining, so we took a photo, instead, of a school child's model of one of the trees in bloom.























A view of the UNESCO World Heritage village
of Shirakawago Gassho-zukuri, where some of the
homes displaced from the dam were relocated.
The wooden homes with steeped thatched roofs are 
designed to withstand heavy snow.

A close-up look at the ripening rice before crossing the suspension bridge over the river and on to our next stop.

On the bus Oka-san played a Discovery video of Sumo Wrestling.  We became intrigued by this ancient sport which relies heavily (pun intended) on ritual and tradition.  It helped that Jerry-san and I are reading Gail Tsugawa's book about Japan called Street of a Thousand Blossoms.  It's about two brothers before, during and after World War II, one of whom becomes a Noh mask-maker and the other a Sumo wrestler.  We highly recommend the book to anyone wanting to know more about the effects of the war on the residents of Tokyo.  (We had never heard about the horrific fire-bombing of Tokyo.)


We arrived in Oka-san's favorite city, Kanazawa, later in the day.  It didn't take long for us to find out why she loves it.  From the marvelous architecture of the Kanazawa Station with it's stylized Torii Gate to the view of the Pacific Ocean from our hotel to the teahouse district and the Kenrokuen Gardens - Kanazawa is exceptional.

Oka-san led us through the Kenrokuen (Garden of Six Attributes), one of the three finest traditional gardens in Japan.  Begun in 1676, its 25 acres include ponds, waterfalls, trees, flowers, bridges and stone walkways.  We were photographed on one of the bridges best known as ---well, the place where everyone takes pictures! We were lucky to be in the gardens at the same time as the workers busy with ladders and clippers.  Some of the trees are over 300 years old, and it's easy to see the source of their longevity.  All it takes is a lot of TLC.















The six attributes of a traditional garden can be found in the next photos:  extensiveness, manmade, antiquity, water, wide prospect and quiet seclusion.  Easy, right?  It only took the Kanazawa gardeners a bit over 300 years to achieve.