Namibia (Continued)

April 23/Sossulvlei Sand Dunes

Freddie endeared himself to us at the Sea of Sand, the world-famous sand dunes. We're not sure who was more courageous, those of us who worked our way up the ridge of "Big Mama" or Freddie for taking us all under his wings and giving us priceless lessons in nature as well as what he called "Lessons in Life" along the way. Most memorable lesson: holding hands as we walked down the sand dune at a 90 degree angle (well, it seemed like 90 degrees) and experiencing a "symbiotic relationship." Thank you, Freddie!

Welwitshia Mirabilis ["Welwitshia," named after the Austrian botanist

who discovered it in 1859, and "mirabilis" which means "miracle"].

They are the oldest plants on earth and considered living fossils.

They're found only in the Namib desert and can live 1,000 years or more.

The Sossulvlei Lodge
Our home in the desert.
Camping in style

The view from our "tent."

I assumed, when invited to ride one, that a "quad" was a four-wheel bicycle. Not exactly. Basically, I just held on for dear life and prayed I wouldn't hit a rock or pothole as I zipped along the desert road. The most exciting moment was watching an ostrich trying to escape a fenced enclosure. As we noisily approached, the terrified ostrich backed up for a running start and headed towards the fence at full-speed. I was bracing for a collision as she headed in my direction, but she missed the top of the fence by a few inches and fell in a heap on the other side. Not to worry though. She scrambled up and, with feathers flying, zoomed away.

The next morning we drove out to the Sea of Sand where we discovered there is more than one way to view the desert.
This is the famous Dune #45. Can you see the people walking on the ridge? We didn't realize we'd soon be doing the same thing on the dune known as "Big Mama."

And here we are, ready to tackle a sand dune. Since we were at

the head of the line (this photo was taken by someone else), we didn't realize that a few of the group turned around and waited in the shade while we marched on, three steps forward and one step back in the soft sand.

A sand-diving lizard was no match for Freddie who dove onto the wall of sand to capture him. We were impressed by BOTH of their diving abilities. (Can you see the lizard in Freddie's hands?)

Here are our shadows on the sand just before we joined hands to descend. It was a vivid example of the importance of hanging onto each other for survival. It would have been much harder trying to do it alone. A life lesson indeed.

Though it doesn't seem too high at this distance, the Big Daddy Dune

is almost 1,000 feet high, one of the tallest in the world.

And finally, an oryx emerges from the shadows, transforming itself before our eyes from black to white. Another miracle in the desert.

Namibia, Land of Endless Space

April 21/Flight to Namibia and the Namib Desert

We flew from Cape Town over the southwestern coast of Africa and soon were looking down on miles and miles of desert. The loveliness of Cape Town, it seemed, was being replaced by the unrelenting harshness of an inhospitable environment. It only seemed that way, however, until gradually we were introduced to a different kind of beauty and a country that is one of the most unusual we've ever visited. Arriving at the Walvis Bay Airport, I looked around at miles of nothing and asked Tony, only half-kidding, "Where in the world have you taken us?" The word "Namib," in fact, means "nothing."

We began our four days in Namibia with local guide and proud Namibian Freddie Bester.

At Walvis Bay (a Dutch word for whales) I took a birthday photo with Jerry and one of the thousands of flamingos that reside there.

We drove past an enclave on Long Beach that was famous for a time as the hideaway of Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie when they were expecting their first child, Shiloh. (Some of you, we know, are really interested in this.) By the way, she didn't deliver the baby at home, as was suspected, but in the hospital in the thriving coastal German town of Swakopmund where we spent two nights.

We stayed at the Swakopmund Hotel, built as a replica of the Railway Station in Hamburg for those who were missing their home country. The Germans arrived in the late 1800's and created a protectorate here. Very strange to see German architecture and to hear German spoken by all the residents, including the African street vendors. Even though Germany left the country to its own devices during World War II and Namibia was granted independence from South Africa in 1990, the country retains many of its cultural ties to Germany. Does the beach front remind you of anything familiar?

April 22/Swakopmund, Damaraland, Spitzkopp

It's "Earth Day," and what better way to celebrate than explore this "Land of Endless Space"? Spitzkopp is called the Matterhorn of Namibia. You can see why.

On the way to the mountains we stopped at the Skeleton Coast to view one of many shipwrecks that litter the shore. Later, a bathroom stop at Hentie's Bay gives us an opportunity to see a golf course with more sand traps than greens.

Jerry and Freddie examine rocks on the side of the road. Most of our finds are mica, nicknamed "the baboon's mirror."

Spitzkopp is part of an area known as Damaraland where ancestors of the Damara tribe lived for thousands of years. Eddie, one of the Damaras, shows us Rock Art that's two thousand years old that was part of the communication system of the people. He also demonstrates the language which is one that involves the "clicking" sound that became famous in the movie The Gods Must be Crazy. Can you see the rhino on the wall?After stopping for a short climb to the Arch Rock, Freddie

takes us deeper into the mountains to find a nice place to

stop for lunch. "What, you didn't bring lunch with you?"

he jokes. "Then what shall we eat?"

The answer is found behind one of the larger rock formations where a pavilion has been set up by a tree, and a tasty buffet awaits us. Isn't this how everyone dines in the desert?

Eddie briefly demonstrating the Damara clicking language.

Robben Island and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens

I've been reading Nelson Mandela's autobiography, Long Walk to Freedom, so a highlight of our time in Cape Town was touring Robben Island, the prison where he spent 18 years in a very small cell. A former political prisoner took us through the cells, explaining what life was like there. Derrick Bosson was only eighteen-years-old when the system of apartheid was wreaking havoc on the lives of those condemned because of the color of their skin. He spent five years there and is a strong advocate for tolerance and acceptance of others despite differences. We all want the same things, he said; we are all God's children. Amen.

The view of Cape Town from Robben Island ---another San Francisco similarity.

Derrick

Bosson,

Freedom

Fighter

The limestone quarry where prisoners labored in the unforgiving sun. The small cave provided temporary relief. The 1200 stones in this pile near the entrance to the quarry were placed there by former prisoners. It reminded us of the stones placed on Jewish graves - a sign that the lost will not be forgotten.

The cell where Nelson Mandela

spent eighteen years of his life.

The gate where prisoners left the prison to return to their former lives - "The long walk to freedom" of Nelson Mandela's book.

The new soccer stadium, one of nine throughout the country of South Africa built for the 2010 World Cup.

Nobel Peace Plaza with statues of the four recipients of the Peace Prize from South Africa:

Albert Luthull, President of the ANC, African National Congress who won in 1960;

Desmond Tutu, Bishop of Johannesburg who won in the 1980s for his work against apartheid;

Nelson Mandela and FW DeKlerk who shared the prize in 1993.

The mountain peaks known as the Twelve Apostles.

The temperature was perfect as we strolled through the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Gardens. We saw many plants and flowers that were familiar because we've seen them at UCSC's Arboretum which has an African garden. Now we know where to go when we want to remember our time in Cape Town, South Africa.

The view of Cape Town from the Botanical Gardens.
Pinchusion Protea
Protea
European Oak
The statuary garden featuring the works of the

gifted artists of Zimbabwe.

Cape Town, Part Two

Sunday, April 18 (continued)

Our first day in South Africa turned out to be one of those uncommonly beautiful days that must be savored while it lasts. Our trip south along the coast brings us to Cape of Good Hope which is only a few degrees farther south than Cape Point, making it the most southwestern point of the continent of Africa. HOWEVER ---- Cape Argulis on the southeastern coast is the actual place where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. Who knew? The Chamber of Commerce in Point Argulis is not happy that everyone travels to Cape of Good Hope in search of the southernmost point. We're doing our part for them by encouraging future tourists to South Africa to insist on seeing Point Argulis instead; although Tony tells us it's very windy and rather inhospitable there. Only one way to sort this out. We need to look at a map of South Africa, so here it is courtesy of Google Maps. (You're welcome :) Cape Argulis is the bottom tip. Cape of Good Horn is to the left and farther north.

Our trip south includes stops at vista points, this one overlooking a lovely bay and Sentinel Rock in the distance. This is where an annual "extreme" surfing contest takes place in September. (Think "Mavericks" at Half Moon Bay.)

Our journey south also provides some entertainment with a brief look at an ostrich farm where baboons wait to share dinner with the ostriches. Tony assures us that the baboons are not as cute as they seem. They're actually agressive and pesky. We find out a bit later how right he is.

We arrive at the two capes, first exploring Cape Point.


The historic lighthouse was in service from 1860 to 1919. The white flashing light of 2,000 candlepower could be seen 67 km. out to sea. But, since the cape was often covered in fog and mist, it was ineffective. After the wreck of the Portuguese liner "Lusitania" in 1911, it was moved lower down on the hill.

Jerry is posing in front of Cape Point,

Hanging Rock looking serene in the distance.

Here's Cape of Good Hope, originally called Cape of Storms by early explorers but given a more appealing name by King John of Portugal who wanted sailors assigned to the distant outpost to feel more optimistic about their sea duty.

Our group of twenty posing in front of Cape of Good Hope as Tony, with at least ten cameras slung around his neck, takes a picture for each of us. And that's why we're all laughing. We should have taken a picture of HIM.

Here are the baboons again, anything but cute as they join traffic and climb on cars to have a look around.

The owner of the white car won't be able to drive his car till the baboon (an alpha male) decides he can.

Farther down the road we visit a beach where African Penguins moved in a decade or so ago. They're the same species we see at the Monterey Bay Aquarium, so it's like greeting old friends. We'll take penguins over baboons any day.

A downy youngster waits for his parents to bring him something to eat. Looks as if he's big enough to fend for himself, doesn't he? But penguins tend to coddle their babies.

The following twenty-seven second movie might not seem too exciting as beach movies go until you learn it's been filmed at the Cape of Good Hope. Breathe in the salt air as you watch it.